/* Pula.travel — a restrained editorial system. No framework required. */
:root{--paper:#f5f3ed;--white:#fffdf9;--ink:#182d35;--muted:#607078;--line:#cdd1ce;--sea:#dce8e8;--deep:#193843;--accent:#5b7b85;--serif:'Cormorant Garamond',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;--sans:'Manrope',Arial,sans-serif;--gutter:clamp(24px,5.6vw,96px);--max:1440px;--header:94px}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:120px}body{margin:0;color:var(--ink);background:var(--paper);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:15px;font-weight:400;line-height:1.85;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}body.modal-open{overflow:hidden}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input{font:inherit}button{color:inherit;cursor:pointer}button,a,input,summary{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button{border:0;background:none}img{display:block;max-width:100%}figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3,h4,p{margin:0}h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:300;line-height:1.04;letter-spacing:-.028em;text-wrap:balance}h1{font-size:clamp(62px,7.8vw,116px)}h2{font-size:clamp(44px,4.6vw,70px)}h3{font-size:38px}em{font-weight:300}p{overflow-wrap:break-word}svg{width:24px;height:24px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.15;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}button:focus-visible,a:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible,input:focus-visible{outline:2px solid #6e9da8;outline-offset:5px}::selection{background:#bfd2d7;color:var(--ink)}[hidden]{display:none!important}.container{width:100%;max-width:var(--max);padding-inline:var(--gutter);margin-inline:auto}.section-space{padding-block:112px}.eyebrow{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:10px;font-weight:500;line-height:1.7;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.21em}.sr-only{position:absolute!important;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap}.skip-link{position:fixed;top:12px;left:20px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);padding:12px 20px;transform:translateY(-180%);z-index:100}.skip-link:focus{transform:none}
/* Masthead */
.site-header{height:var(--header);position:fixed;top:0;left:0;right:0;z-index:30;padding-inline:var(--gutter);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;border-bottom:1px solid transparent;transition:background .25s,color .25s,border-color .25s}.with-hero .site-header{color:white;border-bottom-color:#ffffff26}.site-header.scrolled,.without-hero .site-header{background:rgba(245,243,237,.97);color:var(--ink);border-bottom-color:var(--line);backdrop-filter:blur(16px)}.wordmark{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;flex-shrink:0}.wordmark>span{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:57px;line-height:.8;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.05em}.wordmark-dot{font-style:italic;font-weight:300}.wordmark small{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:8px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.32em;transform:translateY(6px)}.desktop-nav{display:flex;gap:clamp(20px,2.6vw,42px);align-items:center}.desktop-nav a{font-size:10px;line-height:1.4;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:6px 0;position:relative}.desktop-nav a::after{content:'';position:absolute;left:0;bottom:-7px;right:100%;height:1px;background:currentColor;transition:right .2s}.desktop-nav a:hover::after,.desktop-nav a[aria-current]::after{right:0}.header-tools{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;flex-shrink:0}.icon-button{display:inline-grid;place-items:center;width:36px;height:40px;padding:4px;position:relative;font-size:31px;line-height:1}.icon-button svg{width:20px;height:20px}.mobile-toggle{display:none}.saved-count{font-size:9px;position:absolute;top:0;right:-1px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);width:15px;height:15px;line-height:15px;text-align:center}.language-picker{position:relative;font-size:11px;line-height:1.3}.language-picker summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;padding:13px 0 13px 6px;min-width:43px}.language-picker summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.language-picker summary>span{font-size:16px;font-weight:300}.language-panel{position:absolute;top:50px;right:0;width:244px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);box-shadow:0 20px 65px #122b3524;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:22px 24px}.language-panel>.eyebrow{display:block;margin-bottom:12px;font-size:9px}.language-panel a{display:flex;gap:20px;padding:10px 0;font-size:12px;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}.language-panel a span{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.1em;width:25px;color:var(--muted)}.language-panel a:hover,.language-panel a[aria-current]{border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}
/* Photograph treatment. Credits stay beside the image in every view. */
.photograph{position:relative;isolation:isolate;background:#92a1a4;overflow:hidden}.photograph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:var(--focal,50% 50%);transition:transform .8s ease}.photograph .image-link{display:block;width:100%;height:100%}.image-credit{position:absolute;z-index:2;bottom:0;left:0;right:0;text-align:right;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:10px;line-height:1.55;letter-spacing:0;color:#fff;padding:25px 13px 9px;background:linear-gradient(transparent,#081a29b8);pointer-events:none}.image-credit a{pointer-events:auto;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:#ffffff70;text-underline-offset:2px}.image-credit a:hover{text-decoration-color:white}.image-credit>span{white-space:nowrap}.hero-photo{position:absolute;inset:0}.hero-photo img{object-fit:cover}.hero-photo .image-credit{padding:18px var(--gutter) 14px;font-size:10px;background:transparent;z-index:5}.hero{position:relative;background:var(--deep);color:#fff;isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden}.hero-shade{position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;background:linear-gradient(180deg,#0b202549 0%,#0d232300 28%,#0c1d2842 48%,#091d29e6 100%)}.home-hero{height:min(930px,100svh);min-height:730px}.hero-content{position:relative;z-index:2;padding-top:clamp(260px,35vh,390px);padding-bottom:105px}.hero-kicker{margin-bottom:25px}.home-hero h1{max-width:1060px;font-size:clamp(66px,7.6vw,120px);line-height:1;letter-spacing:-.03em;text-shadow:0 2px 28px #102e2940}.home-hero h1 em{color:#e9eeee;font-size:.94em}.hero-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:48px;margin-top:34px;max-width:960px}.hero-bottom p{font-size:13px;max-width:380px;line-height:1.8;font-weight:300}.pill-button{border:1px solid currentColor;border-radius:1px;min-height:52px;padding:13px 22px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:36px;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;transition:background .25s,color .25s;flex-shrink:0}.pill-button.light{color:var(--paper);border-color:#ffffff8c}.pill-button.light:hover{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}.hero-scroll{position:absolute;bottom:31px;left:var(--gutter);z-index:5;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:15px;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}.scroll-line{width:43px;height:1px;background:#ffffff80}.hero-side-note{position:absolute;right:var(--gutter);top:190px;writing-mode:vertical-rl;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.19em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:.85}.text-link{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:11px;line-height:1.55;letter-spacing:.07em;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:26px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:11px 0;transition:border-color .2s}.text-link:hover{border-color:var(--ink)}.text-link>span[aria-hidden]{font-size:18px;font-weight:300}.fine-link{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}
/* Homepage */
.section-label{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:35px;margin-bottom:43px}.fine-rule{height:1px;background:var(--line);flex:1}.intro-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.22fr .85fr;gap:100px;align-items:start}.intro-grid h2{font-size:clamp(42px,4.2vw,63px)}.intro-copy{padding-top:4px}.intro-copy p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;color:#53646a;margin-bottom:26px}.section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:40px;margin-bottom:43px}.section-heading .eyebrow{margin-bottom:22px}.section-heading h2{max-width:780px}.section-heading>.text-link{flex-shrink:0;margin-bottom:5px}.essentials-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.27fr 1fr 1fr;gap:30px}.story-card{min-width:0}.card-image-wrap{position:relative}.card-photo{height:340px}.card-large .card-photo{height:435px}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(2){margin-top:86px}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3){margin-top:36px}.card-image-wrap:hover img{transform:scale(1.025)}.save-mini{position:absolute;top:16px;right:16px;display:grid;place-items:center;width:36px;height:40px;background:#f5f3edf2;color:var(--ink);border:1px solid #fff5;z-index:3;transition:background .2s}.save-mini svg{width:18px;height:18px}.save-mini[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);color:white}.save-mini[aria-pressed=true] svg{fill:currentColor}.card-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:18px;margin:24px 0 12px;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}.story-card h3{font-size:clamp(31px,2.8vw,42px);margin-bottom:14px;line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.025em}.story-card h3 a{background-image:linear-gradient(var(--line),var(--line));background-position:left bottom;background-size:0 1px;background-repeat:no-repeat;transition:background-size .3s}.story-card h3 a:hover{background-size:100% 1px}.story-card>p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.85;color:var(--muted);max-width:370px;margin-bottom:10px}.story-card .text-link{font-size:10px;margin-top:8px}.coast-section{margin-top:112px;background:var(--sea)}.coast-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.05fr 1fr;gap:96px;align-items:center}.coast-photo{height:615px}.coast-photo img{object-position:49% 50%}.image-location{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding-top:19px}.image-location .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.coast-copy{padding-right:20px}.coast-copy>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:25px}.coast-copy h2{font-size:clamp(64px,6.3vw,94px);margin-bottom:27px}.coast-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;max-width:400px}.numbered-links{margin-top:38px}.numbered-links>a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:28px 1fr 20px;gap:16px;align-items:center;border-top:1px solid #829b9d7a;padding:18px 0;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:29px;line-height:1.1}.numbered-links>a:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid #829b9d7a}.numbered-links>a:hover>span:nth-child(2){transform:translateX(4px)}.numbered-links>a>span:nth-child(2){transition:transform .2s}.numbered-links .link-number{font:10px var(--sans);color:var(--muted)}.numbered-links>a>span:last-child{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:20px}.journal-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:36px}.journal-grid .card-photo{height:315px}.journal-grid .story-card:nth-child(2){margin-top:58px}.journal-grid .story-card:nth-child(3){margin-top:18px}.practical-band{background:#e8e8e0;padding-block:84px}.practical-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:100px;align-items:center}.practical-grid .eyebrow{margin-bottom:25px}.practical-grid h2{font-size:clamp(49px,4.4vw,67px)}.practical-links>a{display:flex;gap:20px;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;border-top:1px solid #bcc6c5;padding:21px 0;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:31px;line-height:1.2}.practical-links>a:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid #bcc6c5}.practical-links>a>span:last-child{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:21px}
/* Article experience */
.guide-hero{min-height:670px;height:77svh;max-height:850px}.guide-hero-content{position:absolute;z-index:3;bottom:75px;left:0;right:0}.guide-hero h1{font-size:clamp(63px,7vw,108px);max-width:970px;margin:18px 0 28px}.breadcrumbs{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:10px;line-height:1.5;margin-bottom:30px;color:#e4e9e8}.breadcrumbs>span:last-child{opacity:.74}.breadcrumbs a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.guide-meta{display:flex;gap:24px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.03em;color:#e2e7e6}.guide-meta>span+span{padding-left:24px;border-left:1px solid #ffffff5c}.guide-tools{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;align-items:center;padding-top:18px;padding-bottom:18px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.guide-tools>div{display:flex;gap:32px}.guide-tools .text-link{border:0;font-size:10px}.guide-tools svg{width:16px;height:18px}.save-labelled[aria-pressed=true] svg{fill:currentColor}.article-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.7fr 1fr;gap:100px;padding-block:88px}.article-lead{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(32px,3vw,43px);font-weight:300;line-height:1.35;letter-spacing:-.017em}.at-glance{align-self:center;border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:36px}.at-glance .eyebrow{margin-bottom:16px}.at-glance p:last-child{font-size:13px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted)}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:240px minmax(0,760px);gap:80px;justify-content:space-between}.sticky-toc{position:sticky;top:135px;max-height:calc(100svh - 180px);overflow-y:auto}.sticky-toc>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:25px}.sticky-toc nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:18px}.sticky-toc nav a{font-size:11px;line-height:1.6;display:flex;gap:14px;color:var(--muted)}.sticky-toc nav a:hover{color:var(--ink)}.sticky-toc nav a>span{font-size:9px;color:var(--accent);padding-top:2px}.chapter{position:relative;margin-bottom:52px;scroll-margin-top:140px}.chapter-number{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.16em;display:block;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:12px}.chapter h2{font-size:48px;margin-bottom:22px}.chapter p{font-size:15px;line-height:1.95;color:#4c6067}.article-prose blockquote{margin:45px 0 64px;padding:12px 0 15px 32px;border-left:1px solid #8ca7ad;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:45px;font-weight:300;line-height:1.2;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-.018em}.article-photo{height:365px}.article-inset-photo{margin:16px 0 60px}.photo-description{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:12px}.editorial-note{padding:30px 36px;background:var(--sea);margin:45px 0 68px;border-left:1px solid var(--accent)}.editorial-note>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:13px}.editorial-note>p:last-child{font-size:13px;line-height:1.85}.faq-section{margin-bottom:65px}.faq-section>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:24px}.faq-item{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.faq-item:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.faq-item summary{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:28px;font-weight:400;line-height:1.25;list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;padding:22px 0}.faq-item summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.faq-item summary>span{font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:300;font-size:25px}.faq-item[open] summary>span{transform:rotate(45deg)}.faq-item p{padding:0 40px 25px 0;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.9}.source-section{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:38px}.source-section h2{font-size:34px;margin-bottom:18px}.source-section>p{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.source-links{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin:20px 0;gap:10px}.source-links a{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:var(--line);text-underline-offset:4px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:18px}.source-links a:hover{text-decoration-color:var(--ink)}.source-date{font-size:10px!important;letter-spacing:.02em}.related-section{margin-top:50px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.related-section .section-heading h2{font-size:55px}
/* Collections and utility pages */
.index-intro{padding-top:calc(var(--header) + 92px);padding-bottom:66px}.index-intro>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:28px}.index-intro h1{max-width:1060px;font-size:clamp(68px,7vw,108px)}.index-lead{max-width:660px;margin-top:35px;color:var(--muted);font-size:15px;line-height:1.9}.index-content.section-space{padding-top:15px}.filters{display:flex;gap:12px 32px;flex-wrap:wrap;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin-bottom:52px;padding-bottom:20px}.filter-button{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.07em;padding:8px 0;position:relative;color:var(--muted)}.filter-button.active{color:var(--ink)}.filter-button::after{content:'';height:1px;position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;right:100%;background:var(--ink);transition:right .2s}.filter-button.active::after,.filter-button:hover::after{right:0}.guide-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:70px 36px}.guide-grid .card-photo{height:315px}.guide-grid h3{font-size:37px}.filter-empty{padding-block:40px;color:var(--muted)}.journal-feature{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;gap:65px;align-items:center;margin-bottom:80px}.feature-photo{height:500px}.journal-feature-copy{padding:15px 0}.journal-feature-copy .eyebrow{margin-bottom:25px}.journal-feature-copy h2{font-size:60px;line-height:1.06;margin-bottom:25px}.journal-feature-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--muted);font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;margin-bottom:25px}.utility-heading .index-lead{max-width:850px}.about-photo{height:480px}.utility-prose{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:110px}.utility-prose h2{font-size:46px;margin-bottom:25px}.utility-prose .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px}.utility-prose section>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:14px;line-height:1.95;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:25px}.utility-prose.single{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,800px);padding-top:20px}.credits-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:64px 40px;padding-top:10px}.credit-photo{height:315px}.credit-card>.eyebrow{margin-top:22px;margin-bottom:12px}.credit-card h2{font-size:32px;margin-bottom:14px}.credit-card>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:12px}.credit-card>p a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px;text-decoration-color:var(--line)}
/* Footer */
.site-footer{background:var(--deep);color:#e8ebea;padding-top:66px}.footer-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding-bottom:59px;border-bottom:1px solid #ffffff26}.footer-top .eyebrow{color:#b2c3c6;margin-bottom:22px}.footer-statement{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(40px,4.4vw,68px);font-weight:300;line-height:1.13;letter-spacing:-.02em;max-width:950px}.back-top{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:33px;border:1px solid #9eb5ba6e;border-radius:50%;height:55px;width:55px;display:grid;place-items:center;flex-shrink:0;margin-left:20px}.back-top:hover{background:#ffffff0d}.footer-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.45fr 1fr 1.1fr 1fr;gap:45px;padding-top:58px;padding-bottom:60px}.footer-grid>.footer-brand{padding-right:28px}.footer-brand .wordmark{margin-bottom:22px}.footer-brand p{font-size:10px;line-height:1.9;color:#c0cdd0;max-width:270px;margin:10px 0 18px}.footer-grid>div>.eyebrow{color:#a5bbc0;margin-bottom:21px;font-size:9px;min-height:30px}.footer-grid>div>a:not(.wordmark){display:block;font-size:10px;line-height:1.65;margin-bottom:12px;color:#e1e6e7}.footer-grid a:hover{color:white;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.footer-brand>.fine-link{font-size:10px!important}.footer-language{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:17px 24px;padding-bottom:30px}.footer-language a{font-size:10px;color:#c2d0d2;line-height:1.8;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}.footer-language a[aria-current],.footer-language a:hover{border-bottom-color:#a3c4cf;color:#fff}.footer-bottom{padding-top:26px;padding-bottom:30px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;border-top:1px solid #ffffff26;font-size:9px;line-height:1.8;color:#b8c9cc}.footer-bottom>div{display:flex;gap:24px;flex-wrap:wrap}.network-signature{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.16em;white-space:nowrap}
/* Search, language and saved-guide interactions */
dialog{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);padding:35px 42px;max-height:88svh;overflow:auto;width:min(740px,calc(100vw - 32px));box-shadow:0 24px 100px #051a234d}dialog::backdrop{background:#112d35a8;backdrop-filter:blur(5px)}.dialog-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:25px;margin-bottom:25px}.dialog-top .icon-button{font-size:31px}.dialog-top h2.eyebrow{font-family:var(--sans);letter-spacing:.2em;font-size:10px}.dialog-top .eyebrow{color:var(--muted)}dialog>h2{font-size:52px;margin-bottom:28px}.search-dialog input{width:100%;border:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding:15px 0;background:transparent;border-radius:0;color:var(--ink);font-size:15px;line-height:1.5}.search-dialog input::placeholder{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.results-label{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--muted);margin:20px 0 10px}.search-results a,.saved-results a{display:block;padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.search-results a>span,.saved-results a>span{display:block;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.11em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:7px}.search-results a>strong,.saved-results a>strong{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;font-size:31px;line-height:1.1}.search-results a>p{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);margin-top:10px}.search-results a:hover>strong,.saved-results a:hover>strong{color:var(--accent)}.search-results>.empty-message,.saved-results>.empty-message{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:30px;line-height:1.4;padding:36px 0;color:var(--muted)}.saved-dialog{height:100svh;max-height:none;position:fixed;inset:0 0 0 auto;margin:0;width:min(520px,100vw);border:0;border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding:40px}.dialog-intro{font-size:12px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:18px}.saved-results{margin:15px 0 30px}.saved-result-row{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:15px}.saved-result-row>a{flex:1}.saved-result-row>.icon-button{flex-shrink:0}.menu-dialog{height:100svh;max-height:none;width:100vw;max-width:none;margin:0;padding:30px var(--gutter);border:0}.menu-dialog nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding-top:20px}.menu-dialog nav a{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(35px,7vw,65px);font-weight:300;line-height:1.25;padding:15px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:25px}.menu-dialog nav a span{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:24px}.menu-languages{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:16px 24px;padding:40px 0;font-size:11px}.menu-languages a[aria-current]{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.toast{position:fixed;bottom:24px;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);z-index:80;max-width:calc(100vw - 36px);width:max-content;padding:15px 25px;background:var(--ink);color:white;border:1px solid #9eb5ba;font-size:12px;box-shadow:0 10px 40px #102a3033}.no-js-note{padding:10px var(--gutter);background:var(--sea);font-size:12px}
@media(min-width:1600px){.hero-content{padding-top:350px}.home-hero{min-height:850px}.guide-hero h1{max-width:1090px}.hero-side-note{right:calc((100vw - var(--max))/2 + var(--gutter))}}
@media(max-width:1180px){:root{--gutter:42px;--header:82px}.desktop-nav{gap:20px}.desktop-nav a{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.08em}.wordmark>span{font-size:50px}.wordmark small{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:.25em}.header-tools{gap:8px}.site-header{gap:18px}.intro-grid{gap:55px}.essentials-grid{gap:24px}.card-photo{height:285px}.card-large .card-photo{height:375px}.coast-grid{gap:55px}.coast-photo{height:535px}.coast-copy{padding-right:0}.journal-grid{gap:26px}.journal-grid .card-photo{height:280px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:200px minmax(0,1fr);gap:50px}.article-intro{gap:65px}.guide-grid{gap:60px 28px}.guide-grid .card-photo{height:285px}.footer-grid{gap:27px}.footer-grid>.footer-brand{padding-right:8px}.footer-bottom{gap:20px}.footer-bottom>div{gap:17px}.journal-feature{gap:42px}.journal-feature-copy h2{font-size:51px}}
@media(max-width:1000px){.desktop-nav{display:none}.mobile-toggle{display:inline-grid}.header-tools{gap:16px}.hero-content{padding-top:300px}.home-hero{height:850px;min-height:0}.home-hero h1{font-size:clamp(73px,9vw,94px)}.hero-side-note{display:none}.section-space{padding-block:85px}.intro-grid{grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:45px}.intro-grid h2{font-size:48px}.intro-copy p{font-size:13px}.section-heading{gap:30px}.section-heading h2{font-size:52px}.essentials-grid{grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3){grid-column:1/-1;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;column-gap:36px;margin-top:20px}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3)>.card-image-wrap{grid-row:1/6}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3)>.card-meta{margin-top:15px}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3)>.text-link{justify-self:start;align-self:start}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3) h3{align-self:end}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3) .card-photo{height:325px}.coast-section{margin-top:85px}.coast-grid{gap:36px}.coast-photo{height:515px}.coast-copy h2{font-size:67px}.coast-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px}.numbered-links>a{font-size:24px;gap:12px}.journal-grid .card-photo{height:255px}.journal-grid h3{font-size:31px}.practical-grid{gap:48px}.practical-grid h2{font-size:49px}.practical-links>a{font-size:28px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1.3fr 1fr 1fr;gap:36px}.footer-grid>div:last-child{grid-column:1/-1;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 28px;align-items:center}.footer-grid>div:last-child>.eyebrow{min-height:0;margin:0 20px 0 0}.footer-grid>div:last-child>a{margin:0}.footer-bottom{flex-wrap:wrap}.footer-bottom>.network-signature{margin-left:auto}.article-intro{grid-template-columns:1.5fr 1fr;gap:42px;padding-block:70px}.article-lead{font-size:36px}.at-glance{padding-left:26px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:160px minmax(0,1fr);gap:36px}.chapter h2{font-size:43px}.article-prose blockquote{font-size:39px}.article-photo{height:310px}.guide-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.guide-grid .card-photo{height:355px}.journal-feature{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:34px}.feature-photo{height:450px}.journal-feature-copy h2{font-size:45px}.utility-prose{gap:55px}.credit-photo{height:270px}}
@media(max-width:700px){:root{--gutter:24px;--header:77px}body{font-size:14px}.site-header{gap:12px}.wordmark{gap:9px}.wordmark>span{font-size:48px}.wordmark small{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:.2em}.header-tools{gap:7px}.icon-button{width:32px}.icon-button svg{width:19px;height:19px}.header-tools .search-toggle{display:none}.language-picker summary{min-width:40px;font-size:10px}.language-panel{right:-41px;top:50px}.home-hero{height:calc(100svh - 0px);min-height:750px;max-height:960px}.hero-content{padding-top:0;position:absolute;bottom:114px;left:0;right:0;padding-bottom:0}.hero-kicker{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:23px}.home-hero h1{font-size:clamp(55px,12.8vw,88px);line-height:1.04;letter-spacing:-.035em;max-width:570px}.home-hero h1 em{font-size:.96em}.hero-bottom{display:block;margin-top:28px}.hero-bottom p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.85;max-width:325px}.hero-bottom .pill-button{margin-top:27px;min-height:47px;padding:11px 16px;font-size:9px;gap:37px}.hero-scroll{bottom:52px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.07em;gap:11px;max-width:calc(100% - 48px)}.hero-photo .image-credit{font-size:9px;line-height:1.5;padding:10px 20px 12px;background:linear-gradient(transparent,#07182260)}.hero-shade{background:linear-gradient(180deg,#0b202533 0%,#11292915 20%,#0b202581 47%,#091d29ed 100%)}.home-hero .hero-photo{--focal:45% 50%!important}.hero-photo{z-index:0}.section-space{padding-block:69px}.section-label{gap:25px;margin-bottom:27px}.section-label .eyebrow{font-size:8px;max-width:80%}.intro-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:26px}.intro-grid h2{font-size:clamp(40px,9vw,59px);line-height:1.1;max-width:500px}.intro-copy{padding-top:0;max-width:560px}.intro-copy p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.9;margin-bottom:14px}.text-link{font-size:10px;gap:26px}.section-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:31px}.section-heading .eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:18px}.section-heading h2{font-size:clamp(42px,10vw,61px);line-height:1.08}.section-heading>.text-link{margin-top:21px;margin-bottom:0}.essentials-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:44px}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(2),.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3){margin-top:0}.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3){grid-column:auto;display:block}.card-photo,.card-large .card-photo,.essentials-grid>.story-card:nth-child(3) .card-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.18}.card-large .card-photo{aspect-ratio:1.04}.card-meta{margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:10px;font-size:8px}.story-card h3,.journal-grid h3{font-size:37px;margin-bottom:11px}.story-card>p{max-width:560px;font-size:12px;margin-bottom:6px}.story-card .text-link{margin-top:8px}.coast-section{margin-top:68px}.coast-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:45px}.coast-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:.93}.image-location{padding-top:14px}.image-location .eyebrow{font-size:8px}.coast-copy>.eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:21px}.coast-copy h2{font-size:clamp(62px,14vw,80px);margin-bottom:23px;line-height:1.02}.coast-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px;max-width:480px}.numbered-links{margin-top:28px}.numbered-links>a{font-size:30px;padding:20px 0;grid-template-columns:27px 1fr 22px}.journal-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:44px}.journal-grid .story-card:nth-child(2),.journal-grid .story-card:nth-child(3){margin-top:0}.journal-grid .card-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.18}.practical-band{padding-block:65px}.practical-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px}.practical-grid .eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:20px}.practical-grid h2{font-size:54px}.practical-links>a{font-size:29px;padding:22px 0}.site-footer{padding-top:50px}.footer-top{padding-bottom:40px}.footer-top .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:20px}.footer-statement{font-size:42px;line-height:1.14}.back-top{width:42px;height:42px;font-size:28px;margin-left:20px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:32px 28px;padding-top:38px;padding-bottom:38px}.footer-grid>.footer-brand{grid-column:1/-1;padding-right:0}.footer-brand p{max-width:400px;font-size:11px}.footer-grid>div>.eyebrow{min-height:0;margin-bottom:20px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.15em}.footer-grid>div>a:not(.wordmark){font-size:10px;line-height:1.65;margin-bottom:11px}.footer-grid>div:last-child{gap:12px 25px}.footer-grid>div:last-child>.eyebrow{width:100%;margin-bottom:8px}.footer-language{gap:14px 21px;padding-bottom:28px}.footer-language a{font-size:10px}.footer-bottom{display:block;font-size:9px;padding-top:23px;padding-bottom:27px}.footer-bottom>div{gap:10px 23px;margin-top:14px;margin-bottom:21px}.network-signature{font-size:8px}.guide-hero{height:76svh;min-height:630px;max-height:850px}.guide-hero-content{bottom:71px}.guide-hero h1{font-size:clamp(54px,12.5vw,77px);line-height:1.04;margin:22px 0 26px}.guide-hero .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.breadcrumbs{font-size:9px;gap:8px;margin-bottom:25px}.guide-meta{font-size:9px;gap:10px 18px;max-width:90%}.guide-meta>span+span{padding-left:18px}.guide-meta>span:last-child{flex-basis:100%;border:0;padding:0}.guide-tools{padding-block:12px;gap:20px;align-items:flex-start}.guide-tools>div{gap:9px;align-items:flex-end;flex-direction:column}.guide-tools .text-link{font-size:9px;gap:13px}.article-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:33px;padding-block:56px}.article-lead{font-size:34px;line-height:1.36}.at-glance{padding-left:21px;max-width:570px}.at-glance .eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:10px}.at-glance p:last-child{font-size:12px;line-height:1.85}.article-layout{display:block}.article-sidebar{margin-bottom:48px;padding-block:22px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.sticky-toc{position:static;max-height:none;overflow:visible}.sticky-toc>.eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:17px}.sticky-toc nav{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:15px 25px}.sticky-toc nav 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h2{font-size:45px}.index-intro{padding-top:calc(var(--header) + 58px);padding-bottom:45px}.index-intro>.eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:24px}.index-intro h1{font-size:clamp(58px,13vw,85px);line-height:1.06}.index-lead{font-size:13px;line-height:1.9;margin-top:25px}.filters{gap:9px 22px;margin-bottom:35px;padding-bottom:20px}.filter-button{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.04em}.guide-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:44px}.guide-grid .card-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.2}.guide-grid h3{font-size:37px}.journal-feature{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px;margin-bottom:45px}.feature-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1}.journal-feature-copy h2{font-size:45px;margin-bottom:20px}.journal-feature-copy>.eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:17px}.journal-feature-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px}.journal-feature-copy .text-link{margin-top:0}.about-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.1}.utility-prose{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:45px}.utility-prose h2{font-size:41px}.utility-prose section>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px}.credits-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:45px}.credit-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.22}.credit-card h2{font-size:31px}.credit-card>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:11px}.image-credit{font-size:9px;padding:22px 11px 8px}dialog{padding:25px 25px;max-height:90svh}.dialog-top{margin-bottom:22px}dialog>h2{font-size:44px;margin-bottom:20px}.saved-dialog{width:100vw;max-height:none;padding:25px var(--gutter)}.search-dialog input{font-size:14px}.search-dialog input::placeholder{font-size:11px}.dialog-intro{font-size:11px}.search-results a>strong,.saved-results a>strong{font-size:28px}.search-results a>p{font-size:11px}.menu-dialog{max-height:none;padding:24px var(--gutter)}.menu-dialog nav{padding-top:5px}.menu-dialog nav a{font-size:36px;padding-block:17px}.menu-languages{gap:16px 15px;font-size:10px;padding-block:32px}.toast{bottom:15px;font-size:11px;padding:14px 20px}}
@media(max-width:370px){:root{--gutter:19px}.header-tools{gap:5px}.header-tools .saved-toggle{display:none}.wordmark>span{font-size:45px}.home-hero{min-height:760px}.home-hero h1{font-size:50px}.hero-content{bottom:125px}.hero-bottom p{font-size:11px}.hero-bottom .pill-button{font-size:8px}.guide-hero h1{font-size:51px}.guide-tools>div{gap:4px}.sticky-toc nav{grid-template-columns:1fr}.menu-dialog nav a{font-size:32px}.menu-languages{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.article-lead{font-size:31px}.footer-statement{font-size:37px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*::before,*::after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}
@media print{html{scroll-behavior:auto}body{font-family:Georgia,serif;background:white;color:black;font-size:11pt;line-height:1.6}.site-header,.site-footer,.hero-photo,.hero-shade,.hero-scroll,.hero-side-note,.guide-tools,.article-sidebar,.related-section,dialog,.toast,.save-mini,.skip-link,.article-inset-photo{display:none!important}.guide-hero{height:auto;min-height:0;background:white;color:black;overflow:visible;padding:0}.guide-hero-content{position:static;padding:0}.guide-hero h1{font-size:35pt;color:black;margin:15pt 0}.guide-meta{color:black;font-size:8pt}.breadcrumbs{color:black}.guide-meta>span+span{border-color:black}.container{padding:0;max-width:none}.article-intro{padding:25pt 0;gap:20pt}.article-lead{font-size:17pt}.article-layout{display:block}.chapter{break-inside:avoid;margin-bottom:22pt}.chapter h2{font-size:24pt}.chapter p{font-size:11pt;color:black}.article-prose blockquote{font-size:22pt}.editorial-note{background:#f1f1f1;break-inside:avoid}.faq-item{break-inside:avoid}.faq-item>p{display:block}.faq-item summary{font-size:17pt}.source-section{break-inside:avoid}.source-links a{font-size:9pt}.source-links a::after{content:' (' attr(href) ')';font-size:7pt;overflow-wrap:anywhere}@page{margin:18mm}}

.menu-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 30px;margin-top:25px}.menu-actions .text-link{font-size:11px}
/* Prevent image intrinsic widths from dictating editorial grid tracks. */
.intro-grid>*,.coast-grid>*,.article-intro>*,.practical-grid>*,.journal-feature>*,.utility-prose>*,.credits-grid>*,.footer-grid>*{min-width:0}
.coast-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.05fr) minmax(0,1fr)}
.journal-feature{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.15fr) minmax(0,1fr)}
.credits-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
h1,h2,h3{overflow-wrap:break-word}
@media(max-width:1000px){.journal-feature{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}
@media(max-width:700px){.coast-grid,.journal-feature,.credits-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}.page-credits .index-intro h1{font-size:clamp(44px,11vw,65px)}}
body{font-weight:300}
/* Keep hero attribution above the photographic shade, not beneath it. */
.hero-photo{isolation:auto;z-index:auto}
.hero-photo .image-credit{z-index:7}

/* 2026 seasonal editorial layer */
.wordmark>span{font-weight:300;letter-spacing:-.055em}.nav-seasonal{opacity:.92}.nav-seasonal::before{content:'';display:inline-block;width:5px;height:5px;border-radius:50%;background:currentColor;margin-right:8px;vertical-align:1px;opacity:.55}
.home-hero::after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:-20%;pointer-events:none;z-index:1;background:radial-gradient(circle at 68% 34%,rgba(231,244,244,.13),transparent 27%);mix-blend-mode:screen}
.advent-feature{background:#17313a;color:#f4f1e9;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.advent-feature::before{content:'';position:absolute;width:580px;height:580px;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.08);border-radius:50%;left:-250px;top:-280px}.advent-feature-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.82fr) minmax(0,1.18fr);gap:clamp(48px,7vw,110px);align-items:center}.advent-feature-copy{padding-block:25px}.advent-feature-copy .eyebrow{opacity:.65;margin-bottom:25px}.advent-feature-copy h2{font-size:clamp(50px,5.3vw,82px);max-width:650px;margin-bottom:28px}.advent-feature-copy>p{max-width:590px;font-size:13px;line-height:1.95;color:#d5dedf}.advent-facts{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 30px;margin:31px 0;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#a9bec3}.advent-feature .pill-button{border-color:#80979d;color:#fff}.advent-feature .pill-button:hover{background:#f4f1e9;color:#17313a}.advent-feature-visual{position:relative;min-width:0}.advent-photo{height:610px}.advent-photo img{filter:saturate(.75) brightness(.8)}.advent-date-mark{position:absolute;z-index:5;left:-38px;bottom:40px;background:#f4f1e9;color:#17313a;width:118px;height:128px;padding:18px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between}.advent-date-mark span{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:64px;line-height:.8;font-weight:300}.advent-date-mark small{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.15em}.event-snapshot{margin-bottom:92px}.event-snapshot-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;padding:22px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.event-snapshot-facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.event-snapshot-facts>div{padding:28px 0}.event-snapshot-facts>div+div{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:35px}.event-snapshot-facts span{display:block;margin-bottom:7px;color:var(--muted)}.event-snapshot-facts strong{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:28px;font-weight:300;letter-spacing:-.02em}.event-timeline{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.event-timeline article{padding:34px 32px 37px 0}.event-timeline article+article{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:32px}.event-timeline span{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.18em;color:var(--muted)}.event-timeline h3{font-size:31px;margin:18px 0 12px}.event-timeline p{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted)}
@media(max-width:1000px){.advent-feature-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:45px}.advent-photo{height:500px}.advent-date-mark{left:-25px}.event-timeline h3{font-size:27px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.advent-feature{padding-block:66px}.advent-feature-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:38px}.advent-feature-copy{padding:0}.advent-feature-copy h2{font-size:clamp(48px,13vw,70px)}.advent-feature-copy>p{font-size:12px}.advent-photo{height:auto;aspect-ratio:.9}.advent-date-mark{left:16px;bottom:16px;width:102px;height:108px}.advent-date-mark span{font-size:54px}.event-snapshot{margin-bottom:60px}.event-snapshot-head{display:block}.event-snapshot-head p:last-child{margin-top:10px}.event-snapshot-facts{grid-template-columns:1fr}.event-snapshot-facts>div+div{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:0}.event-snapshot-facts strong{font-size:24px}.event-timeline{grid-template-columns:1fr}.event-timeline article{padding:25px 0}.event-timeline article+article{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:0}.event-timeline h3{font-size:30px;margin:12px 0 8px}}